Moss in the kitchen
We have this table in our flat that we move a lot. Everytime moving it has to be done carefully to not scratch the floor, to not be too loud … Same goes with most chairs. So eventually I came up with the idea of socks for the table. The following pattern is made-to-measure to fit any kind of furniture-legs (just really small ones won’t work). I wanted it decend looking and as I love nature I came up with a leafy pattern (my boyfriend sees them as trees). Looking from a distance it looks like there is moss growing up on our table! I love the outcome a lot, even though I was sceptic at first.
The bottom of these socks is not lacey like the part you see. It is thick crochet that hopefully wont tear soon and gives a lot of protection for the floor.
In the following comes the free crochet pattern, but you can also download the PDF on Ribblr.
Pattern Leg/Chair Socks
This pattern is written in standard US crochet terms.
Materials: 3,5mm Hook, Worsted yarn, Light fingering yarn
Abbreviations:
slst – slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
2dc-cl – 2 double crochet cluster
long sc – instead of sc in the next stitch, sc in the stitch one row below
Start with the bottom part, that will keep the floor from scratching.
Use worsted yarn and hook 3,5mm (for tight stitches), work in rows
BASE measure the table/chair leg (sample is 5x5cm) and make a chain in that width, must have an uneven number of stitches
ROW 1 1ch, turn, sc evenly
ROW 2 1ch, turn, *1sc, 1 long sc* repeat, 1sc in last stitch
ROW 3 1ch, turn, *1 long sc, 1sc* repeat, 1 long sc in last stitch
Repeat rows 2-3 until piece fits the bottom of table/ chair leg
Switch to light fingering yarn (I used greed for this part) but keep 3,5mm hook, work in rounds from now on
ROUND 1 2ch + 1dc in next stitch(counts as 2dc-cl), [2dc-cl] x4 in same stitch, *3ch, skip 4 stitches, dc3tog, 3ch, skip 4, [2dc-cl] x5 in same stitch* repeat all around, instead of last cluster slst into first cluster
From now on do not work in the chains, when talking about the next stitch, the one after the chains is meant.
ROUND 2 3ch (count as first dc), 1dc in same stitch, *3dc, (2dc), 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, (2dc)* repeat all around, instead of last (2dc) slst into first dc
ROUND 3 2ch + 1dc in next stitch (count as first dc2tog), *3dc, dc2tog, 3ch, 1dc, 3ch, dc2tog* repeat all around, instead of last stitch slst into first
ROUND 4 2ch + 1dc in next stitch (count as first dc2tog), *1dc, dc2tog, 3ch, 1dc, 3ch, dc2tog* repeat all around, instead of last stitch slst into first
ROUND 5 2ch + dc2tog (counts as dc3tog), *3ch, [2dc-cl] x5 in same stitch, 3ch, dc3tog* repeat all around, instead of last cluster slst into first
ROUND 6 3ch (count as first dc), *2ch, (2dc), 3dc, (2dc), 2ch, 1dc* repeat all around, instead of last dc slst into first dc
ROUND 7 3ch (count as first dc), *3ch, dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog, 3ch, 1dc* repeat all around, instead of last dc slst into first dc
ROUND 8 3ch (count as first dc), *3ch, dc2tog, 1dc, dc2tog, 3ch, 1dc* repeat all around, instead of last dc slst into first dc
ROUND 9 3ch (count as first dc), *4ch, dc3tog, 4ch, 1dc* repeat all around, instead of last dc slst into first dc, finish off
Now you have one sock. Repeat as often as needed.